Philip Watch: History, Iconic Models, and the Secret of the Gentleman's Agreement with Patek Philippe

Cheap watches what a passion!
Sep 29
8 min read

Introduction: The Duality that Defines a Brand

In the vast and fascinating universe of watchmaking, few brands can boast an identity as complex and layered as Philip Watch. Its history is not simply a sequence of dates and models, but the narrative of an indissoluble union: the rigorous Swiss precision that blends with the creative flair and unmistakable style of Italian design. This "dual citizenship" is not a mere advertising slogan, but the driving force that has guided the brand for over 160 years. This definitive report aims to explore every facet of Philip Watch, from its mysterious origins to its current position, revealing the secrets that have shaped its journey. Our goal is to offer a comprehensive guide that not only lists facts but also interprets their meaning, providing an in-depth and authoritative perspective for enthusiasts and collectors.

The Origins and the Mystery of the Founders

The Birth: Naples, 1858

The official history of Philip Watch begins in 1858, in an era when the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies was a flourishing cultural and economic capital. It was here that a Swiss watchmaker, François Philippe, a member of the large Swiss community that animated Neapolitan life, began to design the first wristwatches of the time. These timepieces, the fruit of an ingenuity that traveled beyond borders, were then produced in the Swiss Jura, his native land. This genesis in Naples and production in Switzerland immediately established the brand's dual soul: a Swiss technical heart and an Italian creative spirit. Over time, the business grew, transforming from an artisanal workshop into a true enterprise. The torch was passed to his son, Jean Philippe, who chose to move the Maison's headquarters to Biel, another nerve center of Swiss watchmaking.

A lesser-known aspect, which adds a fascinating nuance to the narrative of the origins, is the mention of a possible co-founder. While official sources focus on the figure of François Philippe, one historical narrative suggests that the company was born from a collaboration between Philippe and a Neapolitan watchmaker, Filippo Giardiello, who together founded the factory in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Although not the universally recognized version, this theory only enriches the myth of Philip Watch, underscoring how its identity was built on a deep dialogue between two watchmaking cultures.

The Secret of the Name: The "Gentleman's Agreement"

Initially, the brand was known by the name "Philippe Watch". This name, however, carried with it a potential source of confusion with one of the most prestigious Swiss maisons. In 1947, Philip Watch had achieved such a level of fame and respect in the industry that its watches were often associated with those of the much better-known Patek Philippe.

To resolve this homonymy and the possible perceived competition, the two companies stipulated an agreement that went down in history as a "gentleman's agreement". Philip Watch agreed to change its name to the current spelling, dropping the final "e". This act was not a sign of weakness, but on the contrary, an indication of the prestige and high technical quality that the Neapolitan brand had achieved internationally. The fact that a historic manufacturer like Patek Philippe, founded in 1839 and known for its in-house calibers and grand complications , felt the need for a formal agreement to distinguish itself, unequivocally demonstrates the reputation that Philip Watch had built. The episode of the name change thus becomes one of the most significant narrative strengths for collectors, who see in Philip Watch a brand that once played in the same league as the giants of high-end watchmaking.

The Movements: The Technical Heart between Manufacture and Supply

The Golden Age: Historical Calibers and Prestigious Collaborations

The debate between "in-house" and third-party movements is a central topic among watch enthusiasts. "In-house" movements, produced internally by the brand, are considered the pinnacle of exclusivity and excellence, but high-quality movements from specialized suppliers offer an unbeatable combination of reliability and accessibility. Philip Watch, faithful to its philosophy of "value for money", has always opted for the latter path, availing itself of leading Swiss suppliers throughout its history.

The brand's mechanical legacy is rich and varied. In vintage models, one can find prestigious calibers, such as the ETA 2522 and the Peseux 320, which powered classic watches like those in the Chaux-de-Fonds collection. The manual-winding FHF 125 caliber was also used in models such as the "Ragno" collection from the 1950s. Philip Watch also forged historical collaborations, such as with Dubois Depraz, a supplier of high-level complications for the most famous maisons, for the creation of complex watches like those in the Wales collection. Another emblematic example is the Teknodiver, a chronograph from the '90s that housed the celebrated ETA Valjoux 7750 movement, known for its robustness and ubiquity in professional watchmaking.

The Present Strategy: From Automatic Movements to Precision Quartz

Philip Watch's current strategy, under the guidance of the Morellato Group, continues to value outsourced movements, but with a particular focus on reliability and easier maintenance. Many of the most recent automatic models, such as the Caribe, use the Sellita SW2 movement, a modern and reliable caliber that represents a valid alternative to the Valjoux for its robustness. Other timepieces, like the Caribe Diving, are equipped with the automatic STP1-11 caliber.

In parallel, the brand makes skillful use of high-precision quartz movements, an evolution that began in the '80s with the growing popularity of this technology. Models like the Anniversary and the Sealion mount Swiss calibers like the Ronda 515. The choice of these movements is a pillar of the brand's philosophy: to maintain high quality and impeccable precision while keeping costs down and offering a more accessible price compared to watches with "in-house" calibers. This strategy allows Philip Watch to appeal to a wider audience, offering timepieces with refined designs and the guarantee of Swiss manufacture, without the exorbitant price of high-end watchmaking.

The Masterpieces of Time: Icons and Bestsellers

The Undisputed Icon: The Caribe Collection

If one model fully embodies the history and evolution of Philip Watch, it is undoubtedly the Caribe. Born in the '60s as a professional diver's watch, the Caribbean 1000 was a true pioneer. Its monobloc case, a revolutionary technical innovation for the time, guaranteed exceptional water resistance up to 1000 meters. This model, along with variants like the Caribbean 2000, cemented the brand's reputation as a producer of high-quality professional instruments. It is no coincidence that today, vintage models from the Caribe line are highly sought after and command high prices on the secondary market.

In the present, the Caribe collection has not lost its aura of prestige but has expanded its appeal. It has become the brand's bestseller, evolving into different variants to satisfy the tastes of a wider audience. Lines such as Caribe Diving, Caribe Sport, and Caribe Urban offer a versatile design, ranging from sporty elegance to a more metropolitan refinement. This evolution from a diving tool to a style icon reflects the brand's modern strategy, which uses its heritage as a source of inspiration to create contemporary and accessible timepieces.

The Faces of Modern Success: Roma, Blaze, Sunray, and Beyond

In addition to the ubiquitous Caribe, Philip Watch has consolidated its success with several collections that have become benchmarks for its current offering.

Museum: With historical roots dating back to the '40s, the Museum collection represents a direct bridge to the brand's past, offering a classic and timeless elegance. Current models, available with quartz and automatic movements, uphold the promise of design and quality at a competitive price.
Roma: Another flagship line, the Roma collection, is appreciated for its elegant and versatile design, with models that suit every occasion, from formal to casual.
Blaze: The Blaze collection stands out for its bold and sporty style, often enriched with complications like the chronograph.
Sunray: With a design that evokes sunrays, the Sunray line offers refined watches with attention to detail, available in different variants and with price ranges that reflect the quality of the manufacture.

The prices of Philip Watch timepieces reflect their accessible nature, ranging from a few hundred euros for quartz and time-only models, up to over 2000 euros for automatic chronographs or those in precious materials.

Here is a comparative table to navigate the most popular collections:

Model Name	Type	Movement	Case Material	Average Price
Caribe	Diver, Classic, Sporty	Automatic, Quartz	Steel, Gold, Plated	€399 - €1890
Museum	Classic	Automatic, Quartz	Steel, Brass	€440 - €590
Roma	Classic	Automatic, Quartz	Steel	€486 - €1490
Blaze	Sporty, Chronograph	Automatic, Quartz	Steel, Brass	€420 - €560
Sunray	Classic	Automatic, Quartz	Steel	€490 - €1890
Capsulette	Classic	Automatic, Quartz	Steel	€2190 - €2390
Anniversary	Classic	Automatic, Quartz	Steel	€299 - €690

Note: Prices may vary depending on the retailer and model specifications. However, this positioning strategy has an impact on the brand's perception in the global market. While vintage collectors recognize and appreciate Philip Watch's historical heritage, modern consumers sometimes consider it the European equivalent of a mid-range "department store watch". This gap is a direct consequence of its modern business strategy, which has shifted the focus from a niche of high-end watchmaking to a broader clientele, valuing aesthetics and accessibility over mechanical complexity.

A New Chapter: The Acquisition by Morellato Group

The Change of Ownership: From Sector to Morellato Group

The Philip Watch we know today is the result of a profound corporate transformation that took place in the early 2000s. After being acquired by the Sector Group in 2000, the brand underwent a second change of ownership in 2006 when the entire Sector Group was acquired by the Italian luxury hub, Morellato Group. This acquisition marked a new chapter in the brand's history, offering the opportunity to "expand, develop, and highlight the excellence of its creations," as stated by the President of Morellato Group, Massimo Carraro.

Morellato Group, a major Italian company specializing in jewelry and watches, brought with it a solid distribution network and a clear strategic vision. The goal was not to turn Philip Watch into a manufacturer of "in-house" movements to compete with high-end watchmaking, but rather to capitalize on its rich history and design heritage to position it as an accessible prestige brand.

The Impact of the Acquisition: Strategy and Market Positioning

Being part of a global-sized group has allowed Philip Watch to maintain its dual soul, maximizing the synergy between Italian creativity and Swiss technology. The current strategy is clearly aimed at offering "fantastic value for money". The use of modern and proven third-party movements like Sellita and Ronda, combined with a refined design and high-quality materials (such as stainless steel and sapphire crystal ), allows the brand to keep prices in a competitive range.

This deliberate positioning explains the brand's perception in the contemporary market. Philip Watch does not seek to compete head-to-head with Patek Philippe or Rolex, but positions itself in a market area where authentic history, elegant design, and the guarantee of Swiss Made certification meet practicality and accessibility. The transition was a well-thought-out business calculation, aimed at reaching a broader audience without losing its historical essence. The "gentleman's agreement" with Patek Philippe remains a valuable legacy, but the modern commercial goal is to position Philip Watch as a value option for those seeking an elegant and reliable watch with an authentic story to tell.

Conclusion: The Future between Tradition and Innovation

Philip Watch has traversed an extraordinary history, beginning in Naples with the vision of a Swiss watchmaker and continuing to the present day, shaped by changes in ownership and bold strategic choices. Its strength lies precisely in this dichotomy: the ability to produce watches with a Swiss technical heart in full compliance with quality standards, and the skill to infuse each model with the elegance and inventiveness of Italian design.

From a pioneer with the iconic Caribbean 1000 of the 1960s to a modern protagonist with successful collections like Roma, Museum, and the current variations of Caribe, the brand has managed to renew itself while remaining true to its origins. Its current strategy, under the guidance of the Morellato Group, is not a departure from quality, but a pragmatic evolution towards a model that offers the excellence of Swiss craftsmanship and the aesthetics of Italian design to a wider clientele. Philip Watch thus confirms itself as a fascinating and accessible alternative for those who desire a watch with a rich history and timeless elegance, without the exorbitant cost of major manufactures.

Cheap watches what a passion!